1 What is the correct torque for the set screw to handle connection?
The minimum torque is 20ft/lb. The carbon and Kevlar layers on the handle can compress slightly. The proper handle installation procedure is as follows.
  1. Remove the old handle.
  2. Insert the new handle. It may be necessary to tap the head onto the new handle. DO NOT tap the bottom of the handle. Hold the handle in your hand and tap the head down onto the handle.
  3. Torque the set screw to approximately 15 ft/lbs. and install the striking face.
  4. Drive a few nails with the hammer.
  5. Remove the striking face and re-torque the set screw to 20 ft/lbs.
  6. Reinstall the striking face.
2 What is the correct torque for the striking face?
We tighten the striking faces to about 30 ft/lbs.
3 Should I use a thread locking compound on the set screw?
Although it’s not necessary, there’s no harm in using thread locker when installing the set screw. But, don't install the thread locker until after you've driven 15-20 nails to "settle in" the hammer.
4 Can I hit stuff with the side of the hammer?
You bet. It’ll scuff up the Tool Driven logo obviously. But you can hit nails with all of the metal parts. Just don’t strike anything with the handle or heel of the hammer.
5 Do you make a milled striking face?
At the moment, we do not. We’re not opposed to it, but it hasn’t come up as an important issue. We think that putting nearly all of the hammer’s weight in the head has the side effect of deterring the head from moving unpredictably.
6 Why is the outside layer Kevlar instead of carbon fiber?
There are two reasons. First, when Kevlar wears, the individual fibers don’t shear, they fray. This means that if the handle is damaged the user feels it as “fuzzy”, not splintery. Secondly, unlike wood handles, because the Kevlar fibers don’t shear, if the handle breaks during use, the head won’t fly off.
7 Why isn’t the carbon fiber handle glassy smooth like carbon fiber bikes and car parts?
To get the ultimate strength with a carbon fiber-reinforced plastic, the fibers must be “fully wet out,” meaning that each fiber must be surrounded by the epoxy. Any more epoxy than necessary to fully wet out the fibers simply adds weight. To get the glassy smooth finish on some carbon fiber parts, the manufacturer adds extra epoxy that can be sanded smooth. Tool Driven forgoes the extra epoxy because it simply adds weight where it’s not needed.
8 I dropped my set screw and now I can’t find it, can I get another one?
Sure. We’d be happy to send you one, just contact customer service.
9 What’s the difference between the Tool Driven Framer and the Tool Driven Builder?
The Framer is designed for maximum nailing efficiency. The head weight class is 16oz which is the optimum balance for achieving the highest possible kinetic energy when swinging the hammer. Although this is ideal for nailing, some of our testers preferred a slightly heavier head for more impact authority when not striking nails (like moving walls into place, knocking beams, etc.) The Builder uses a head weight in the 19oz class and is an ideal all-around hammer.
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10 Which hammer should I choose?
It’s hard to judge personal preference, but generally speaking, if you like the feel of the 15oz titanium hammers, you’ll probably prefer the Framer. If you like the power of a steel-handled 22oz or 28oz hammer, you’ll probably prefer the Builder. If you’re looking for maximum versatility, we recommend the Builder.
11 Will this hammer rust?
Of course it will rust, it’s made out of high-strength carbon steel.

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